A
few of my favourite locations within the vast necropolis
of what is today called Saqqara, the burial grounds
for the noble populace of ancient Memphis ( Ineb hedj
, White Wall ) from the Archaic to Coptic times, over
3500 years of activity ( c 3200 to 500 ad ). From
the crude to the magnificent Saqqara caters for every
student of Ancient Egyptian History.
Over the years since my earliest exhilarating visit
in December 1979, the drive from Cairo along the main
north/south route turning west flanked by fig palm
clad fields approaching the awesome Step Pyramid always
at its best shimmering in a light smokey haze. I am
sure my pulse starts to race with the impending expectation
of another glorious day, the site is as yet undiminished
after all these years.
Of the highlights and there have been many the following
spring to mind, March 1986 walking through the Archaic
Cemetery with Professor Geoffrey T Martin to the long
ago sanded up remains of the tomb of the great Hesy
re.
Greatest of Physicians and of Dentists dating to the
III Dynasty. Standing completely spellbound listening
to stories of in my mind the great W.B. Emery before
enjoying a mint tea in the Egypt Exploration Society
dig house , viewing a copy of the epigraphy from Horemhebs
tomb before meeting Dr Eugen Strouhal a very charming
gentleman.
My first excursion inside the Step Pyramid, anyone
who has had the good fortune to accomplish this will
explain the feeling of awe when you arrive in the
center peering down the burial shaft . The rickety
old steel safety fence not inspiring any amount of
confidence. To see the ancient entrance / exit possibly
last used by Imhotep himself after the burial rites
of Djoser had been completed. The way in today is
via the Saite tunnel, the columns they left again
generate apprehension . There is an overall feeling
of reverence and great antiquity, our own inadequacies
way heavy on the mind, this is a place I didn’t want
to leave.
Working in the tomb of Kagemni for Dr Yvonne Harpur
in March 1998 checking fish species room by room ,I
soon came to realize how demanding field Archaeology
can be. I can honestly say it is the hardest I have
ever worked , the reward being the involvement in
something very special. When an invitation arrived
from Professor Karol Mysliwiec Field Director for
the Polish / Egyptian Mission to visit the newly discovered
tomb of Merefnebef a Vizier of the late VI Dynasty
. Dr Harpur obviously thought I needed a break allowing
me to visit this wonderful and so far unique tomb
the colour still pristine as though completed yesterday.
The entrance is so narrow it is unlikely it will ever
be possible to allow access, Professor Mysliwiec spent
over an hour explaining the excavations especially
the problems facing consolidation and renovation of
the beautiful reliefs, before he introduced me to
his team. The importance of this discovery can be
judged by the temporary staircase built to accommodate
President Hosni Mubarak. This area until recently
unexcavated is believed to adjacent to Djosers dry
moat ( a fascinating theory ).
One of the great joys of Saqqara away from the touristy
places are the sanded up tombs with maybe part of
a lintel jutting out of the sand . To read the Hieroglyphic
inscriptions and of course recite the name of the
occupier I believe I am performing an ancient ritual
( the invocation ritual ) , he who passes by my tomb
may he, etc . Always replacing the sand , may I add.
Another excellent day at Saqqara , I remember Professor
Martin inviting me to visit Maya’s subterranean rooms
he delighted in explaining the significance of the
golden reliefs . I felt very privileged although totally
committed to the Old Kingdom its nice to view the
New Kingdom excavations especially with such an authority
as G.T.M.. I know through my travels many people have
visited the tomb of Nefer just south of the Unas Causeway
, I recall climbing down the wooden steps to view
the face of Waty his face showing great dignity after
4350 years .Amazing just try to imagine how the world
has changed since his last breath , to gaze upon his
face seems surreal.
One day the unexpected happened and worked to my benefit
, it was February 1996 I had arranged to meet an old
friend Stan Ladd. He was due to arrive from Luxor
and rendezvous with me at Djosers main entrance, as
it happened Stan had internal flight problems never
arriving in Cairo until the following day. I sat on
a bench waiting for an hour, having spent most of
my previous visits running around like a headless
chicken . I realized the benefits of just chilling
out and enjoying the wonderful timeless views very
rewarding especially if uninterrupted .
Finally in October 1993 I remember arriving at Saqqara
before the ticket office had opened around 8.00 am
. In fact no one seemed to be anywhere so I proceeded
on my travels arriving at the tomb of Ti while the
guardian was still asleep on his woven mat , just
inside the tomb. The necropolis is so mysterious before
the sun has risen all the mists and shadows full of
rich colours so pleasant on the eye, before the sun
bleaches them all away for another day. I very much
doubt you could do this today but its worth the effort.
Alan M Fildes