This year's trip tp Cairo was eagerly awaited, we left London Heathrow on British
Airways flight BA 155 on the 23rd November arriving at our hotel The El Gezirah
Sheraton on time.
Day One 24.11.2000
My first job was to ring Sabry El Masry , my very good friend and taxi driver
( Cairo 4589822 ) we have been friends for years, he picked us up outside the
main entrance, it was lovely to see him again. Travel is so easy in Cairo these
days the new motorways take away many of the old difficulties. First stop as
always is Dahshur to visit King Sneferu, many tourist this year we walked around
the Red Pyramid noticed excavated foundations to the south-east looks like some
form of temple. Next the bent pyramid, walked around in complete silence climbing
the subsidary pyramid, very clear views this year of Amenemhet III ( The Black
Pyramid), then we walked the causeway to the Valley Temple where we sat and
took in the atmosphere a terrific place to visit.. ( Just imagine in your mind
what it must have looked like 4550 Years Ago )
The afternoon we were off to Saqqara had a chat with my friends in the ticket
office, first stop the Teti Pyramid on my own the only way to visit, took some
great slides of the Pyramid texts as well as the text inside Teti's sarcophagus.
Spent time in Kagemni, Mereruka, Ankhmahor and Ti, Sabry dropped me off near Userkaf
Pyramid, walked around the mortuary temple over the basalt pavement certainly
built for millions of years. Climbed out up and over the sand dunes towards
the step pyramid complex of King Djoser if you look closely there are inscribed
blocks all-round. Enought done today, had promised Chris we would sit on the
floating bar at the Sheraton and watch the Nile flow by accompanied by a few
Stella's of course, the evening we walked across a bridge to the Sheraton Towers
for a meal as always i had Lentil soup and a Pizza Marghertia and a bottle of
Omar Khayyam red wine ( It's really improving ) then back to the piano bar for
a nice relaxing evening.
Day Two 25.11.2000
Today Abusir spent four hours visiting the 5th Dynasty Pyramids of Sahure,
Niuserre, Raneferef, Neferirkare and Queen Khentkaus this day we are looking
for the the ancient graffiti and are in luck Ptahshepses especially has many architects
and builders marks all in red ochre we also discovered a Phyle graffiti in the
Temple of King Neferirkare, or as Christine will tell you she did. I always
enjoy Abusir although it will soon be spoilt by mass tourism but not yet, or
at least not today we sit there in complete silence with not a soul in sight,
bliss.
For many years I have wanted to visit Zawyet El Aryan, the Layer Pyramid attributed
to King Khaba of the 3rd Dynasty not an easy place to find. Today I was lucky
we found the antiquities gaurd Sabbah in a cafe by the side of the local canal
on the main street, Chris took some fancinating photos of the local s drinking
coffee and playing board games whilst chickens ran in and out of the shops.
After a short drive through very narrow streets we finally arrived, a formidable
climb lay ahead up a steep hill ankle-deep in sand, decided to go alone.
The First Dynasty and Third Dynasty excavation pit's are still evident as is
the Army camp whose walls are all around the Pyramid, dozens of wild dogs showing
great interests in my movements ( not as much as i was showing in them ! ) found
the entrance and the robbers tunnel nobody's been here for years climbed to
the summit what a great view.
No easy day today, no where off to Giza, I decided to climb the heights overlooking
the Plateau, my goodness this for an Old Kingdom enthusiast like myself is so
rewarding. The Vizier and the Master of all works of the King must have sat
up here and viewed the work in progress what a Panorama. There is also a good
view of the excavations to the East, of the 4th Dynasty provisioning areas for
the pyramid builders. What a great day dusk is now approaching time for a few
Stella's.
Day Three 26.11.2000
Up Early lots to do today, Sabry amazed when I say back to Giza please (he
should know by now). Entered by the Sphinx Gate hadn't a clue what was in store,
had so much fun at the ticket office at least 200 schoolkids started shouting
to me and trying to shake my hand. Wondering what was going on I asked a smirking
tourist policeman, he said they think you are Hulk Hogan ( it must be my beard)!
I answered he must be 6ft 7 inches tall i am only 6ft 2 inches he shrugged his
shoulders, never mind I said the Egyptians are great fun.
visited the tomb of Debhen Overlord of Nekhen, here i found the inscription
referring to the Hr Pyramid, (show biz) again took forever to get the lights
on this year but as always worth the wait there are some wonderful inscriptions.
Next door the tomb of Yunmin Cheif Justice and Vizier of Menkaure, up the slope
visiting many of my favourite places on the way Kaemnefert, Mersuankh, found
remnants of the Great Pyramid Ramp exactly where it should be fantastic, how
have i missed it all these years.
Must now dash to the Egyptian Museum in central Cairo, have spent longer than
I should have enjoying myself as usual, need some slides for my NEMES talk in
January 2001. After taking slides of all the most popular exhibits spent some
time taking different views of Alexander, the notice accompanying this imposing
statue states he is Alexander the second thats impossible he never came to Egypt
he can only be Alexander the Great or his son Alexander the 4th (i like to think
its Alexander the Great). Now off to the Nile Hilton for some Sustenance, had
some great fun with an Egyptian carrying a 12ft ladder on the back of a moped,
I smiled and waved he did the same just managing to keep his balance what great
people they are.
Day Four 27.11.2000
Another great day in prospect, i love the drive to Saqqara you see so much
of life some unchanged for the millennia. Today we will visit Ptahhotep, IsesiAnkh,
Merefnebef old favourities, and a recently discovered tomb of an official named
Ankh. Followed by a leisurely walk across to Userkaf then meandered across to
Djosers Pyramid where we sat in the shadow of the step pyramid for half an hour
not a sound to be heard,
It can't get any better than this. Walked by the side of Unas Pyramid ( Still
Closed ) to visit and spend sometime at the tombs of Maya, Horemheb, Khay, Tia,
Pabes not my period but have been visiting here since there discovery over 16
years ago.
Isn't the view of the Step Pyramid from the south stunning, have been doing
the same walk for over 20 years visiting many of the same tombs, there is always
something different to view. This time I sat in the shade of Unas Pyramid to
reflect how lucky I am, pursuing such an interesting relaxation taking me far
away from my normal hectic life, didn't want to leave but sadly had to, had
taken over 700 slides for my archive. All finished now back to the floating
bar at the Sheraton for a few Stella's and get ready for the evening meal.
Have already arranged my next trip to Egypt this time i will spend time in
Luxor at the Sheraton of course in March 2001, have been going there since my
travel guide days, hope to meet up with some old friends especially Awad, we
have been friends since 1987, finishing the year with another sojourn to Cairo
in November 2001.
Alan Fildes December 2000